Reaching Everest Base Camp is not just a light hearted trek….Glenda Geeves, December 2013
It’s an expedition that will test you in more ways than one both physically and mentally. But for that short time you spend at base camp the reward for effort is undeniable. Reaching your ultimate destination on this demanding trek allows you to reflect on the moment, which will become one of the greatest travel experiences and achievements of your life!
My 16 year old daughter Mackenzie and I had a long standing promise that we would travel together – anywhere in the world when she finished grade 11. My thoughts were that this would be an incredible opportunity for just the two of us before she graduates next year and perhaps has other ideas! New York, London, Paris – came to mind, shopping, gorgeous food….instead, she chooses Everest Base Camp… After doubting whether attempting this trip was actually possible in December which is the winter, I have to say I was absolutely thrilled with her choice and so the planning began; gear, early morning training killer sessions and researching the Himalayas.
The challenge on paper looked simple enough. We had great advice on preparing ourselves physically for what lay ahead, and trained hard to prepare ourselves in an effort to ensure we were successful. This was the plan, arrive in Nepal with dreams to attempt one of the world’s greatest journeys – a 12 day return trek up to Mt. Everest Base Camp and back -the task itself, easy in theory, eight days up and four days back, rest (acclimatization) days at Namche Bazaar and Dingbouche, throw in some great scenery, a few hours a day walking and spending lazy afternoons in the local tea houses, exploring the small villages and meeting the locals!
Our adventure began in Nepal, we were so excited; a new country, a new adventure. We arrived in Kathmandu a thriving, bustling city, packed with adventure seeking tourists from around the globe. This is a city of friendly people with a great sense of spirit and entrepreneurial flair. After settling in we attended the group meeting with Intrepid Travel to meet our fellow trekkers and guide. Little did we know the close bonds we would form during this adventure that will last a lifetime. It is the forging of new friendships in new places that is one of the true rewards of traveling.
We left Kathmandu at sunrise, bursting with anticipation of what lay ahead, and piled into a tiny plane for the short flight to Lukla. This is a charming village 2800 metres above sea level and a well known destination for trekkers beginning the ascent through the Himalayas. It’s also known for being voted one of the most extreme and dangerous airports in the world. From a distance, the airstrip looked the size of a mars bar, enveloped by rugged snow capped mountains peaks at every viewpoint. Arriving is a challenge for any pilot, land too short and you dive nose into the river hundreds of metres below, land to late and well, you smash into the face of the cliff. There is absolutely no room for error, and thank goodness – our expert pilot was having a cracker of a day, tick that box – we had arrived safely.
Day 1 of our expedition you could say was a moderate trek (on Australian Mountain Standards) consisting of 4-5 hours following the spectacular Dudh Kosi River. Under crystal blue sky and with the sun shining on our backs we took in the clear mountain air, traversed through beautiful country and crossed numerous suspension bridges that were draped in colourful prayer flags. Our goal for the day was to reach Phakding for our first night in the Himalayas. A spectacular start, it seemed as though this was not going to be too hard at all, a simple walk in the park or the Himalaya’s.
We soon learnt that this was not quite the case. The long and steep walk to our next destination, Namche Bazar was definitely one of the more challenging days of the trek, ascending over 800 metres in a single day to the village, which at 3440 metres is the largest in the Khumbu Region with a population of roughly 1,500 people. We trekked up impossibly steep paths and the winding, undulating steps seemed to go on forever until at last we had arrived. Namche has a number of amenities that you won’t find as you go higher, internet for one, so we knew communication with home would be limited for a while now. If there is anything that Namche has an abundance of, it is gear shops. If you’re a few days into the trek, and you find you’re in need of some piece of gear, then chances are you can find it in Namche Bazaar. Whether its boots, sleeping bags, or warmer clothes, you’ll find everything you could possibly need, often at excellent prices. Some of the gear is authentic, some are cheap knockoffs, but the village is an outdoor gear lover’s dream come true, and while it is possible to resupply on some items later in the trek, everything gets more expensive the higher you go.??
As I mentioned, you actually spend a “rest day” in Namche to help you get use to the altitude and give you time for a bit of recovery. But that doesn’t mean that you’ll be taking it easy while you’re there. On our second day in Namche, we were up bright and early, as usual, and after breakfast we were on our way up a nearby mountain to continue working on our acclimatization. On that morning climb we actually ascended an additional 400 metres and got our first views of Everest, Lhotse, and one of the most beautiful mountains on the planet, Ama Dablam. It was an incredible feeling to trek in the Himalayas and be in Namche mixing with people actually living there and going about their daily lives.
After 2 nights in Namche the trek resumes to Tengboche, the next significant village along the route and an altitude gain of 400 meters. Most of the days that follow are similar in nature; moderate distances that are made all the more challenging by the ever-increasing altitude.
The first few days of the trek are undeniably scenic, with mountain peaks surrounding the route, and glacier fed rivers rushing by the trail. But after leaving Namche Bazaar behind, that scenery changes dramatically with the snow capped peaks of the Himalaya towering high overhead. Most of the mountain villages after Namche are sleepy little towns with few amenities. The teahouses become a bit more basic the higher you go and the shops have fewer goods to sell, although their prices continue to rise with the altitude.
As we trek through the villages each more charming than the last, we arrived at Tengbouche, the home to the largest Buddhist Monastery in the Khumbu region. At 3867m, the monastery and village of Tengboche is surrounded by spectacular peaks and offers clear views of the highest mountain in the world. I can understand why they built the monastery there, and when we were told that we could visit the Monastery and sit inside to observe the monks going about reciting their prayers, we jumped at the chance. As we entered the Monastery and removed our shoes we could hear chanting of the monks. I was overwhelmed by the beauty of the place, with its amazing carvings and paintings and the giant gold Buddha at the back of the monastery. A monk directed us to where we could sit. Quietly we observed the monks chanting the prayers. The monks sit cross legged on low wooden bench type seats, with the head Lama sitting at the top of the monastery in front of the large Buddha statue. The chanting was almost hypnotic and something that I felt truly privileged to be a part of. Visiting Tengboche Monastery was an experience I will never forget. It seemed that every day that I was in the Himalayas, I got to see more and more of how friendly and kind the local Sherpa people are. I think the rest of the world could learn something from these peaceful and simple living people.
After leaving Tengbouche, the thinning air became more of an issue as we trekked higher, reaching into the sky towards our ultimate goal of Everest Base Camp. Most of us started to experience symptoms of acute mountain sickness (ACM) however our group was spared any extreme cases. ACM is an illness that can affect mountain climbers, hikers, skiers, or travellers at high altitudes, usually above 2,400 meters. Symptoms include difficulty sleeping, headaches, nausea and loss of appetite. ACM can affect the nervous system, lungs, muscles, and heart. It is not possible to know in advance if you will become ill when traveling to a high altitude. In addition, being physically fit does not decrease your chances of developing a high altitude illness, but this possibility is more a case of being aware of what could happen and having a plan on descending if things get too uncomfortable. Not everyone makes it to base camp but hey, the journey is just as much fun as the destination right!
A definite highlight of the trip was the day prior to our ascent to Base Camp where we viewed the awe inspiring peak of Mt Everest from Kala Pattar, it looked like it was breathing smoke off the North face and I couldn’t help but feel an absolutely sense of peace, I knew deep down that we had witnessed what most people will never get to see and so felt a great sense of gratitude for the opportunity.
The main event – after 8 days of trekking we rose early on the morning of base camp day and eagerly anticipated reaching our destination. After 3 hours of trekking we arrived elated and exhausted, happy and proud! Mt Everest Base Camp the starting point for those brave and strong enough to attempt summiting Everest. As we raised our arms in unison for photographs happy with ourselves at what we achieved, my mind was abuzz with thoughts of the history that surrounded Base Camp. It was 60th anniversary year of Hilary and Tenzing’s famous climb and for a fleeting moment I even entertained the thought of attempting it myself one day!!
Our journey took us to some of the most beautiful parts of the Nepalese Himalayas with views of Ama Dablam and the staggering Mt Everest. We wondered through cobblestone streets, dodging yaks and played with the children of the villages. We always felt welcome by the beautiful people we met along the way as they waved from their modest houses surrounded by prayer flags. We experienced -35 temperatures and up to 100 kilometre per hour winds, we crossed bridges that looked as though they might collapse, we walked up the most impossible paths with a million steps, we marvelled at the huge loads the porters were able to carry, packed with essentials such as food and firewood for their families and all the while we created some close bonds with our fellow trekkers.
Some trips are about the destination and some about the journey. This one was both, our journey bonded Mackenzie and I with a shared experience which we will carry for a lifetime, we laughed, we cried and we did it!
It was a breathtaking adventure – literally!
Do I recommend this experience – absolutely!
Many thanks Intrepid Travel who looked after us so well during our trek, Mountain Design for sponsoring us and supplying all our gear and Base Camp Adventure Fitness for making sure we were fit enough!
